Anyone who has used Soviet surplus 5.45x39mm ammunition knows that it is dirty, nasty and corrosive. I happen to shoot thousands of rounds of the stuff. In fact, I’ve shot so much through my Spike’s 5.45 upper that the bolt carrier locked closed.
It was gummed up beyond belief, stuck closed. I could not pull the charging handle back, even when I braced the muzzle on the ground, gripped the handguard with my knees and pulled up on the charging handle with both hands.
So I stuck a big flathead screwdriver into the bolt carrier group and pried the bolt carrier open. I then proceeded to shoot a decent group at 300 yards. Impressive? I think so. Unfortunately, you really do need to clean your guns, once in a while. It’s a chore, but a necessary one. When I clean my AR-15, I use Simple Green and the Kley Zion Carbon Removal Super Tool.
You Use Cleaner and a What?
The name Kley Zion is not going to ring a bell with most people, even in the AR-15 community. However, you may have heard of Botach Tactical, a company based out of Florida. I am not going to go into the customer service or stocking issues that some have had with Botach. This is simply a review of gear. Kley Zion, or KZ, is a line of products offered by Botach. They are generally inexpensive versions of other products. Sometimes, Botach will claim a product to be produced in the KZ line when it is not. Such is the case with the AR-15 cleaning kit, they sell. It’s identical to the UTG one, but they sell it under the KZ name.
Super Tool
The Carbon Removal Super Tool is, however, simply fantastic. It functions like other carbon scrapers, with the flat end removing buildup from inside your bolt carrier. The real wonder is the corkscrew shaped apparatus at the other end. To clean the tail of the bolt, you insert it and simply turn. The aggressive shape of the Super Tool scrapes off any nasty gunk that’s built up. The only drawback to this design is that it can be a bit tough on the hands when gripping the corkscrew portion while cleaning the inside of the bolt carrier.
Simple Green Simply Works
In an effort to give credit where credit is due, I must say that it never occurred to me to use Simple Green as a cleaning agent for my firearms until I contacted Mike Pannone of CTT Solutions. Pannone is a tremendous resource for tactical training, technical consulting and all things AR-15.The man has more knowledge in his trigger finger than most men have in their entire bodies. But I digress; on to Simple Green.
It’s an all-purpose cleaner, so why not use it on guns, right? Formulated as a de-greaser, Simple Green works remarkably well at removing carbon and corrosive salts deposited in the barrel of a weapon. It is almost remarkable in its ability to break up caked-on carbon from the bolt carrier group. As part of my cleaning regimn, I remove the BCG and place it in a thin jar full of Simple Green. After a few minutes of soaking I remove it and work the bolt back and forward to help the cleaning agent reach all areas. I then soak it for a bit more before proceeding with disassembly and cleaning using the KZ Carbon Removal Super Tool.
An important fact to keep in mind when using Simple Green (or even glass cleaner containing ammonia) is that the solution is water-based. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with using water to clean your firearms. I routinely pour a pint of boiling water down the barrel of my AR-15 as the first step in cleaning it. The danger with using any water-based agent comes from the reaction that moisture has with corrosive salts from surplus ammunition, and from the reaction that it has with the steel of your barrel.
The key is to dry your barrel out completely after scrubbing it down with Simple Green. If Mother Nature is cooperative, I recommend placing your upper receiver on blacktop in direct sunlight. This works especially well on a hot day.
If the weather is overcast, you can always use compressed air to blast the large droplets out. Then grab your wife’s hair dryer (or your own hair dryer – to my female readers) and go to work. Author’s note: your wife’s pink hairdryer is in no way less effective than a more manly looking one. Just don’t let the boys see you using it.
When you have baked all the moisture out of the barrel, simply apply a thin coating of either RemOil or CLP. I find that the most important part of cleaning is lubrication. I usually run my AR-15 until it was absolutely filthy. I just made sure it is well lubricated and it keeps chugging along.
But in those rare times that I get past my innate laziness, I break out the KZ Carbon tool and the Simple Green.
By Allen Cosby
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I got some kind of organic fancy smancy rust removal kit from Mike Coker a year or so back. I think this kit is right up your corrosive alley. I have been meaning to try it out on a frozen up Mosin Nagant forever and still haven’t done it. Better I send it to you and you review it with that 5.45 stuff. Then you can tell your boy in the Gaza strip too if it works well. Mike’s setting up TGR email adress’s for us. When he does shoot me your mailing adress and I’ll send it out to you.
Cary, I look forward to it. Ramsey is a US Army soldier I met in Baghdad. And Lebanon isn’t the Gaza strip. Different brand of jihadis, man.
Yeah whatever your welcome too.
ca**@ta***************.com
I heard of cleaning out firearms with Simple Green..Its good to hear it works..Cant wait to try it. Now what if I have a rusted out Mouser? In Lebanon (Country) I still have my Grand Fathers German Mouser, however it is quite rusted considering it was being used in 1948. An old villager told me to soak it in Diesel fluid for a good 15 days.. I never really tried cause I figured the dude was just senile…Have you heard of this method of taking the rust out? Thank you Sir.
Ramsey, is your grandfather’s Mauser rusted just on the outside, or in the bore as well? Just how much rust are we talking about? Send me a picture.
I’d be tempted to go at the outside with dry steel wool. As for the bore, I’d think about simply cleaning it normally and just shoot the damn thing.
As for Lebanon, I’d suggest moving to Pennsylvania. We have a Lebanon (town) here and there’s no Hezbollah in it.
Hi Ramsey,
Diesel fuel functions quite well as a cleaning agent. I regularly use kerosene, gasoline, and/or diesel fuel as solvents, although it goes without saying that these are all HIGHLY flammable and must be used in an open area far away from potential sources of ignition. For what it’s worth, stick to kerosene or diesel over the gasoline, as they evaporate more slowly and contain a higher percentage of crude components = better oiling properties.
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is also an excellent cleaner in a pinch.
Just remember to try and limit getting these on the wood stocks of your firearm, as I cannot say whether or not they will react with what remains of the factory finish, and more importantly, the underlying wood.
As always, make sure to apply a good film of quality oil when your cleaning/rust removal is complete. If you cannot locally source a dedicated “firearms-grade” oil, you can utilize a light machine oil such as “sewing machine oil”, “3 in 1”, etc.
Hope this helps!
Another good read. Lazy, eh? I can’t abide the idea of build-up building up. But it sounds like your choice of cleaner and tool work well!